About Aimoriyama
There are about thirty processes involved in making Kurume Kasuri, and while most of these processes are now being produced by machine weaving, Aimoriyama is one of the few workshops that continues to preserve the Kurume Kasuri process as an important intangible cultural asset.
Aimoriyama has been producing Kurume Kasuri since the end of the Edo period, and even as the times have changed rapidly, they have carefully passed down each of the processes necessary for Kurume Kasuri.
Features of Aimoriyama
Aimoriyama does not use chemical dyes, but uses organic cotton and natural sukumo (a raw material for indigo), and craftsmen approved by the government are in charge of the delicate work of hand bundling, indigo dyeing, and hand weaving.
Processes of Kurume Kasuri
Kurume Kasuri is beautifully woven through more than 30 processes of exceptional skill and long experience.
Today, machines are the mainstream in the production of Kurume Kasuri, but Aimoriyama cherishes the hand weaving process that has continued for generations.
We would like to introduce you to the process of creating this artistic fabric that is rare in the world and representative of Japan.
01
The artist uses paint to draw the expected finished pattern of the kasuri pattern. These designs are then submitted to the Agency for Cultural Affairs for approval, and the production of Kurume Kasuri as an intangible cultural asset begins.
02
Create a calculation chart to determine the approximate size of the circle based on the picture paper.
03
It is used to determine the approximate width of the pattern to be made by splitting the bamboo into thin strips and cutting them thinly based on the calculation chart.
Nowadays, a square piece of paper is also used.
04
The warp is adjusted according to the number of kasuri to be produced.
05
Adjust the number of 20-unit pieces by matching them 3 or 4 times.
06
The shaped threads are burned in a large pot of boiling water for about 20 to 30 minutes.
07
To prevent the yarns from falling apart, the threads that will become the warp threads are dipped in fabric glue and dried under tension.
08
Soak the skin part of the hemp for the kukui in water to soften it.
09
The pattern of the kasuri is hand-knotted with arasou (hemp stem bark).
10
The indigo is fermented by using sukumo (dye) produced in Tokushima Prefecture and adding sake (sacred wine), the supernatant of hard wood ashes (aku/strong alkali) and shell ashes to nourish the sukumo as it ferments. The characteristic of indigo dyeing is that it ferments in an alkaline state.
11
The yarn, fully soaked in water, is dyed while moving from the lighter indigo to the darker one. The process is repeated 30 to 40 times, with one set of soaking the thread in a jar, raising the aperture, and beating.
12
Once the desired color has been achieved, wash in water, remove from water, and repeat the dehydration process, then wash by hand and repeat the dehydration process three times.
13
After rinsing, soak the threads in boiling water and leave overnight.
14
After leaving it overnight, lift the thread out of the cold water, and while it is still wet, use hara-sou to untie the knotted parts.
15
After unkasuri is finished, soak it in water for a few days (2~3 days), changing the water.
16
Soak the Kasuri thread in water and add a little glue and let it dry.
17
Since it has been sutured three or four times, it will be divided into units of 20 or less.
18
Frame up the yarn by passing through 20 holes so that each yarn is less than 20 strands.
19
Wind the framed yarn around the bamboo tube with the yarn wheel. The weft is now complete.
20
The warp threads and the dried Kasuri threads are placed about 50 cm apart with the Kasuri threads matched to the first design.
21
After pulling the threads together, dip the Kasuri yarn in glue, apply tension, and dry in the sun. When dry, take in the Kasuri yarn and the ground yarn, respectively.
22
Arrange the Kasuri yarns and the ground yarns according to the calculations on the diagram while making the braid.
23
Thread the reed into the ground as it is lined up.
24
The Kasuri is rolled up into a roll box while removing the Kasuri stopper.
25
Twist the thread and yarn to make a strand.
26
Adjust the pattern as you weave so that it lines up properly.
27
Adjust the pattern as you weave so that it lines up properly.
28
The woven fabric is dried in the sun to remove the glue.
29
After drying, take it in and roll it on a fabric winder.
30
Adjust the cloth so that it is the specified length for Kurume Kasuri.
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Kurume Kasuri
Kurume Kasuri
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